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But this attractive destination is much
more than merely comfortable.
It's set at
the edge of Dexter's downtown in an Arts and Crafts-style house with
jaunty purple awnings. Inside, it's light, airy and unexpectedly
contemporary - quite different from its days as the very traditional
Cousins Heritage Inn.
New owners
Terry and Kate Braciszewski, who bought it in 2005, converted
the small dining rooms with dark carpeting and wallpaper into an
open, light-filled space with uncovered windows, beautiful cherry
floors and walls painted warm terra cotta and soft yellow.
They turned the
small entrance into a striking bar area open to the second floor,
gave it stylish Arts and Crafts accents, and created a deck for al
fresco summer dining.
It's the kind of place that makes you
feel good just being there.
I was even
happier when I read chef Douglas Hewitt's modern American menu, with
accents ranging from Asia to the Midwest.
For casual
occasions, it features a few fun items such as beef tenderloin
sliders and a trio of flatbread pizzas ($9-$12).
But the
kitchen's real ambitions are reflected in its upscale appetizers and
11 handsomely composed entrees.
My favorite was
Berkshire bacon-wrapped Alaskan halibut, presented in a wide bowl
with tender pillows of potato gnocchi, baby eggplant coins, slender
asparagus spears, organic field greens and an understated grainy
mustard buerre blanc. Whisper-thin bacon added just a hint of
smoke to complement the fresh sweetness of the fish ($24).
Thai scallops
were delightful, too, with their flavorful coconut-peanut sauce.
Five nicely seared pieces, still silky and moist inside, surrounded
a cylinder of jasmine rice topped with julienne snow peas, pea
shoots and baby corns ($23).
Cashew-encrusted
whitefish entree was pretty, but its asparagus risotto was sticky
and virtually unseasoned ($18).
I liked the
chicken satays. The dish may be old-hat,
but these were moist and tasty and whimsically impaled on a grilled
pineapple slice ($8).
I tried
several other starters, too, but it's hard to beat the simple sweet
corn bisque ($5), which bursts with corn flavor, and the memorable
Crispy Duck Confit Salad ($6).
Terry B's service is confident and
professional, and for casually upscale dining, I wouldn't hesitate
to recommend it - despite the night that even our server called one
long "Murphy's Law moment."
It started when
we were seated and no one came to our table for 15 minutes. Two of
the entrees we ordered were sold out, and the wine I chose had been
open too long and I had to ask for a glass of something else. Then
the server had to come back and tell us the third entree wasn't
available but one of the others now was.
We were given
our drinks on the house, and the server couldn't have been nicer or
more apologetic.
It was my second
visit, and it was so different from a nearly flawless first night
that I went back a third time with friends, and we all had a lovely
evening.
"Cute place. I
like it," one of my guests said.
"Me, too," I
replied.
It's well
priced, great looking, interesting, friendly and ... well,
comfortable.
Terry B's
THREE STARS out
of 4 stars
7954 Ann Arbor
St., Dexter
734-426-3727
http://www.terrybs.com/
Fare: Stylish American fusion. Full bar;
100-plus wines.
Scene: Very attractive, contemporary
destination spot; relaxed but upscale enough to impress a date or
celebrate a birthday. Great-looking bar.
Service: Professional, well-informed and
accommodating.
Price: Starters and pizzas $5-$12; entrees
$17-$26.
Hours: Lunch Thursday-Friday. Dinner
Tuesday-Saturday.
Note: Smoke free. Reservations suggested.
Child's menu. TV in bar; live music Thursdays.
Contact SYLVIA
RECTOR at 313-222-5026 or rector@freepress.com.
ILLUSTRATION:
Map Detroit Free Press;Photo CAPTION: Photos by ROMAIN BLANQUART /
Detroit Free Press
ABOVE:
Bamboo-steamed Alaskan sturgeon, inside the neatly tied package, is
served with ginger-scented jasmine rice and Japanese radish slaw at
Terry B's in Dexter.
ROMAIN BLANQUART
/ Detroit Free Press
The outdoor
patio at Terry B's is a popular spot in the summer.
CAPTIONWRITER:
RIGHT: At the restaurant in Dexter, server Chris Eyers brings a dessert to Dick and Betsy Fox of
Traverse
City.
MEMO:
RESTAURANTS
DISCLAIMER: THIS
ELECTRONIC VERSION MAY DIFFER SLIGHTLY FROM THE PRINTED ARTICLE
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